My New Favorite City...Edinburgh

My European vacation began with a bang this year.  I was all ready to leave in Japan, packed up and had my house ready for the summer without me.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature didn't really want me to leave.  I was set to leave at 3am on June 20th to head to the train station, but at 8pm on the 19th, a typhoon knocked my power out.  I had to get ready in the dark, taking a cold shower, and frankly I was pretty freaked out.  I was worried that my house would mold, the dehumidifier wouldn't work, my plants would die, etc.  But, I had to get on my way.  I got to the train station where there were delays due to the storm, but I finally got to the airport.  Again, there were delays and the airline staff told me that I probably wouldn't get on my plane because of all the cancelations from the night before.  After about 2 hours of elevated heart rates and anxiety, I boarded my plane to Osaka.  It was in Osaka that I caught another plane to Amsterdam for my connection to Scotland.  After I was on that flight, I could breathe easy, so I settled in for a long flight to Europe.  Aboard this flight, I was thrilled to find out that I was somewhat of a celebrity.  Apparently, my last name is a common Dutch name.  Everywhere I went, people were greeting me and chatting me up.  I also learned that I have been mispronouncing my name my entire life.  It should rhyme with mouse...bouse.  Anyway, along with my vacation.  I landed in Edinburgh with no more problems and met up with my friend Mark to begin our adventure.  After lugging our luggage on a bus, up a large hill, and then to our hostel, I was exhausted.  But, as you can see below, the  view from the hostel was spectacular!  It was located in the heart of the action and within walking distance to everything of importance.

We were super pumped about the location until we arrived at our room.  We booked the deluxe two-person room, which looked phenomenal online, but once the door to the Bonnie and Clyde suite was opened, we found that it was quite underwhelming.  In fact, we had no floor space.  We couldn't even lay out both out suitcases at the same time.  After having a great laugh about our conundrum, we decided that it didn't matter, because we weren't planning to spend much time in the hostel anyway.  

So, we headed out.  Mark was an excellent tour guide since he had spent lots of time here before, but it was my first time in Scotland.  In fact, I hadn't even been to Europe in over 10 years.  The first thing I noticed was the history.  I loved walking the cobblestoned streets, seeing the ancient architecture, and feeling like I was back in medieval times.  

I could have spent weeks here, just walking around and exploring neighborhoods.  This is the Royal Mile.  It's a street filled with shops and restaurants that starts at the top of the hill at Castle Rock and continues down to High Street where Holyrood Palace is located.  This part of town is aptly called Old Town.  

Unfortunately, we brought horrible weather.  We left the typhoon in Japan, just to have rain for the entire trip.  In fact, it was only sunny for about 45 minutes one morning in Edinburgh.  Otherwise, it rained the whole time.  The wet weather and the chill of Scotland was an adjustment.  Especially since I left a hot and humid Japan.  Here I am at Portcullis Gate, which is the old ceremonial entrance to the city.  The crest above the arch is the Scottish Royal Arms.  

After hiking to the top of the complex, I took in the magnificent, panoramic views of the city.  

This was the Great Hall located in the Crown Square of the complex on the top of the hill.  It was built in 1511, but spent little time as a hall.  Instead, it was converted to barracks by a conquering leader, Cromwell, and continued to be used as such for about 230 years.  

In the 1800's, it was refurbished to look as it does now.  It is quite grand, and has the power to take your breath away upon entering.  The walls are adorned with ancient weapons, from pistols to swords, and the armor that protected the soldiers.  There used to be heavy curtains on the walls for warmth, which covered up the grate on the back wall on the left.  That was used for eavesdropping in the main hall.  One could sit on the other side of the grate and listen to all that was said.  

Across the square was the Scottish National War Memorial.  There are many books inside listing all the fallen soldiers and a little about their lives.  It was a very touching memorial, very well done.  

This is the Royal Palace.  The last royal to sleep here was Charles I the night before his coronation in 1633.  According to Scottish historians, the most important thing that happened here was the birth of James VI of Scotland and I of England.  His mother was Mary Queen of Scots.  In the palace, I also got to see the Honours of Scotland, but of course, couldn't take pictures.  It included the Crown, Sceptre, and Sword of State.  These are the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles.  Also in the palace, was the Stone of Destiny.  This stone has served as throne during the coronation ceremonies of most of the monarchs of England and all sovereigns of Great Britain after 1714.  It has quite a history.  

Another view from the top.  Despite the rain, it was still beautiful.  

This tiny building is the oldest one in the castle, and therefore the oldest in Edinburgh.  It is St. Margaret's Chapel, built around 1130.  David I had it built for his mother, who was killed in the castle in 1093.  

Although it is very tiny inside, there are still christenings and weddings.  Perhaps 20 people could tightly fit inside.  This is the alter.  

A view of the city as seen down the barrel of a cannon.  

Back down the hill, we headed to lunch at one of Mark's favorite restaurants.  There was so much to look at while wandering the streets.  There were tons of shops, restaurants, bars, and just great surprises along these streets.  

Lunch wouldn't be proper with an Innis & Gunn beer.  Delicious!

This is the General Assembly Hall of the Church of Scotland.  I loved the mystical feel of the city during the rains.  

This is St. Giles' Cathedral of the Church of Scotland.  It is considered the mother church of Presbyterianism.  We walked past it several times a day since it was right on the Royal Mile. It was stunning inside, especially the Thistle Chapel, which is named for the Order of the Thistle.  The Order of the Thistle has roots in the Middle Ages and is Scotland's great order of chivalry.  To be recognized by the order is one of Scotland's highest honors.  

I couldn't pass up the opportunity for a photo.  

After seeing all the concerts and other shows that come through Edinburgh, I would love to spend more time there. 

Mark and I needed a break from the chill and the rain, so we went on a shopping spree. 

We finally made our way to the bottom of the Royal Mile to tour Holyrood Palace.  This is the official residence of the monarch of the United Kingdom in Scotland.  Queen Elizabeth spends a few weeks each year here.  

The walls were filled with history as well as tragedy.  Mary Queen of Scots spent most of her life here. In fact, she married two of her husbands here.  Her secretary David Rizzio was also murdered here in front of her by her husband Lord Darnley who was very jealous of their close relationship.  It was an interesting tour filled with many facts about Scotland.  I was amazed that I actually knew so little about Scottish history.  I found that it often gets diluted with information about England, when in fact they are very different.  

The palace was founded as a monastery in 1128.  These are the remains of it right outside the palace doors.  It was a peaceful place, especially with the rain and the soft light filtering through the windows.  

It was amazing to me that the ruins were about 900 years old and still in such great shape.  The only thing missing was the stained glass and the roof.  

I could have spent all day taking pictures here.  There were so many great shots.  But to be honest, I didn't pack many waterproof shoes and I absolutely hate wet feet.  So, Mark and I headed back to the hostel to dry off and take a break before heading out for the night.  

After drying off and moving to our new room (thank goodness...we couldn't handle such close quarters!)  we decided to head out for dinner.  Right outside the hostel, we found this band.  All along the street people were lining up to listen to the beautiful music.  Later, we found out that this group was the Royal Edinburgh Tattoo.  

Fun fact about me...I LOVE music.  I love all kinds of music; country, rock, rap, jazz, blues, electronic.  You name it, I like it.  I am the schmuck that goes to a football game and looks forward to half-time and the marching band.  I am often moved to tears.  Yes, even when I am in public listening to the marching bands.  Judge me if you want.  It's ridiculous, I know.  So, here we were listening to the band when they started heading up the hill.  Being the nosey folks that we are, we decided to follow them and see what we could see.

We followed them up to the castle where there was a military ceremony being held.  Luckily, it was open to the public.  This ceremony was in honour of the 40th Regiment Royal Artillery, called the Lowland Gunners.  This particular regiment was being disbanded and the ceremony honored all members past and present.  

It was very moving to be present for the ceremony.  I think it was especially meaningful because I now work on a military base.  It is interesting to see how other countries conduct their ceremonies.  We got to hear short speeches from Major General R.E. Nugee, General Sir Peter Wall, and General Sir Timothy Granville-Chapman.  We heard that this regiment was present for conflict in the Suez Canal, West Germany, Borneo, and Afghanistan among others.  

I think the best part of the entire ceremony was watching the former members light up when they saw friends from their past.  They would round the corner with their families, glance up to the stands looking for a place to sit and when recognition hit, it was magical.  Honestly, I spent half the ceremony watching the soldiers, their families, and their friends interact together.  The ceremony concluded with all the current soldiers marching through the gates of the castle followed by all the former soldiers.  It was so moving that it brought tears to my eyes.  The camaraderie of military members is always moving.  It was a great end to a fabulous tour of Edinburgh.  I can't wait to return.